Day 55 - Wednesday 28 February 2024

Today was my opportunity to explore Christchurch, and it dawned overcast and drizzly. A relaxed start to the day, I left my room at 09:30 and took the 15 minute walk to the information office. There I bought a ticket for the tram tour of the city; a circuit of 18 stops where the driver provides a commentary. I thought that the logical place to start was stop 1, so I found the indoor portion of the track and boarded the tram. 

We got as far as stop 2 before the driver pulled into a siding at the cathedral square and informed us that there was a problem with the tram; we all hopped off, and onto the tram that was approaching stop 2 behind us. 

The track consisted of two distinct loops, both of which passed stop 2 ..... the tram we boarded was visiting the second part of the loop first from this stop, so I although I did the whole track, it did it a bit backwards. 

Christchurch seems to me to be a city scarred from the earthquake that hit on 22 February 2011. This is both physically as can be seen from the amount of new build and rebuilding currently happening, and also by the way that everything seems to relate back to that day.

We learned that 80% of buildings in central Christchurch were lost; most notably the brick built properties fared worst (over 90% lost), and the modern glass built buildings fared best. It is notable that there are few brick buildings remaining, and those that are left won't be around for very long. The new builds are steel and glass for the commercial and office buildings, and primarily wood for residential as wood framed buildings also had the flexibility to survive well.

Many of central Christchurch's civic buildings were made of stone, and these also didn't fare particularly well. Many of these have now been rebuilt with new earthquake sympathetic foundations, and with the stone reinforced with steel. While many buildings have been repaired, there is still much work to do. For example, the cathedral has only recently had the stabilisation work completed which has allowed workers to go into the structure. It is currently being held together by a steel exoskeleton while the restoration work begins.

As we travelled through the city we learned how the central shopping areas are all rebuilt and new, and limited in height as it had been clear that tall buildings react less well to earthquakes than shorter buildings. We then passed the site of new multi-purpose stadium that's being built and is eagerly awaited (notably from the lady driver because their beloved Crusaders rugby team has had to play in a stadium that's too small for too long).

I completed both loops of the tramline, and then wandered back to get some shots of the trams as they passed. Then back to the central square where I bought something I've been looking for since I arrived in New Zealand ..... I know I'm going to need a wide brimmed hat, and they had some on sale near stop 2. I've learned over the years that I need to get stuff when I see it, so I now have a kangaroo leather hat to protect me from the sun for the rest of the trip (with a vented back so I don't overheat).

I stopped off in the main shopping area for a coffee, then after a further wander the drizzle returned and became heavier. Fortuitously I was near the Victoria Bar that I discovered yesterday, so there I took shelter just after midday until the rain relented. They have a very nice hazy IPA called 'Parrotdog'.

From here it's wasn't far to Quake City, a museum explaining about earthquakes in general and how the 2011 quake has impacted Christchurch.

The Maori tradition is that earthquakes are caused by the god Ruaumoko, the son of Ranginui (the sky) and his wife Papanuatuku (the earth). The husband and wife had been separated, and his tears had flooded the land. To prevent them from seeing each others' sorrow, the mother was turned to face downwards, but their child Ruaumoko was still at her breast and carried to the world below. To keep him warm he was given fire, and occasionally his kicks can be felt in the land; he is therefore the god of volcanoes and earthquakes.

There were lots of interesting displays and artefacts, including video footage of the moment that the quake hit and how there was no warning and how quickly buildings started to collapse. People going about their daily lives in the street one second, and being thrown about the next. It's quite sobering that this is where I currently am.

There were lots of interactive displays showing how the liquefaction of the ground can cause buildings to sink, and many items from the quake and the rescue efforts. The spire of the cathedral was here along with a sculpture that had been erected overlooking a cliff before the cliff collapsed following the quake, leaving the sculpture as a twisted reminder. It was a powerful display that I'm pleased to have visited.

On leaving here at 15:00ish, I decided that I'd walk back to the motel as there was currently no rain. This lasted until half way back, when I took shelter under an overhanging tree as a squall passed through, then back to the room.

I'm not usually much of a city person, but Christchurch has an absorbing recent history to look at and a lot of still open wounds from the earthquake. It is a city that is rising from the ruins though; a modern vibrant city that seems to have learned the lessons ....... but we won't know how well until the next quake hits. That's not an if; unfortunately it's a when!